MeadowTree Perspectives

Style Wise-One Asymmetrical Story

I realized that my last three posts on this blog had something in common. They all featured asymmetrical styles. It finally hit me that this is a line that I seem to gravitate towards when it comes to style. Hence, this style story was born.

What Is Asymmetrical?

In the most simple terms, asymmetrical is when both sides are not the same-just the opposite from symmetrical. In fashion, this could be hemlines (side to side or front to back), one sleeve looks, or just wearing two different earrings.

Asymmetry can add a note of interest and turn the ordinary into the extraordinary. It has continually been popular with designers and never seems to go out of fashion.

I find it to be very flattering and can make an artistic statement that I’m usually after in my wardrobe. Going through my closet, I pulled items to illustrate how asymmetry can be used in all our basic garments and have added one curated shopping and pattern selection to go along with each garment style.

Tops

I’m starting off with truly the most asymmetrical item in my collection. Not only is the hem uneven but the left and right side of the pattern has two different cuts. This top was just completed in July from fabric designed by Nicole Miller for Joanne’s fabric. It’s a good beginner pattern and is cut in one piece.

To Buy Or To Make

To buy: Chico’s and on sale

To Make: Burda 7340

It is now discontinued, but as usual, can be found in numerous places.

Sweaters

I’m starting sweaters out with the easiest sweater I’ve ever knitted. The Paris Sweater by Sarah Keller is a rectangle (32 “x 23” to be exact)! I found it on Ralvery (a knitting community) and it is free. Depending on what yarn you choose, it can be worn fall, winter and spring. I had a large one pound cone of silk yarn in my stash called Olive Garden that I just didn’t know what to do with and this sweater was just right.

To Buy Or To Make

To Buy-A wonderful sweater tunic from Rain & Ross from Saks of the 5th. $44.99

To Make: The Paris Sweater

Dresses

I found this gorgeous print dress a couple years ago from ASOS’s Made in Kenya line. I set the print off with a black jacket and wide belt. I would check out the The Made In Kenya line-there are some gorgeous things on there and at this moment they are on sale.

To Buy Or To Make

To Buy: Kay Unger’s classic and beautiful asymmetrical dress. Now on sale for $180.60

To Make: A Zero-Waste dress pattern from the independent pattern company Elbe Textiles. I can’t tell you how badly I want to make this dress. It’s asymmetry is understated but there non the less.

Another Top-A different kind of asymmetry.

I wanted to include this top because it has what could be called step asymmetry-one side is a different length with no gradual change. This design is by Rachel Riss for her company Linear; a designer who has her garments manufactured in California. I added this top to my collection over a year ago. If you can fit into a XS, You can get this top on clearance for only $14.

To Buy Or To Make

To Buy: Another Rachel Riss step top. This is the one I have my eye on. It’s on sale for $26. It’s Model Rayon which means super soft! And this green is so perfect for me. You can wear it as shown or tie the longer panels up.

It also comes in Powder Blue and Black.

UPDATE: As of 10/28, it looks like they are all sold out-darn, missed out!

To Make: Style Arc’s Crystal Overshirt

OK, I know this is a cop out but Rachel Riss seems to have the step asymmetrical tops all to her self. Anyway, this is a pattern that I know is in my future. It’s perfect for a piece of fabric in my stash.

Skirts

One of my easiest to wear skirts is this asymmetrical navy knit from Kansas City designer Laura McGrew. Unfortunately, Laura retired from designing last year but I am happy to have a few of her made in Kansas City designs in my collection.

Skirts offer so many fun asymmetrical styles; from handkerchief hems, front to back high/lows, dramatic wrap-Arounds. I’m wearing a simple left to right angle hem.

To Buy Or To Make

To Buy:From Newman Marcus: Vince Star Dot Asymmetrical Draped Skirt. On sale for$86 (down from $345)

To Make: Vogue Pattern 1638 offers a simple a-line skirt with a panel that give it’s an asymmetrical line-a classic skirt with a twist.

Asymmetrical In a Pinch

How can you create an asymmetrical look without actually having a specific asymmetrical garment? It’s easy and I have two examples that I’ve worn over the years.

One way, is take a large scarf and pin it to create a angled line as I did below with a scarf from St. Louis Designer Michael Drummond. Ah, those good old days when Rachelle and I could gallery hop on those First Fridays!

Another easy solution is to gather up one side of a top and secure it with either a hairband and, if you want, add a pin.

That’s the end of this quite asymmetrical tale. Do you a few asymmetrical items in your closet? What’s your favorite thing to wear if you have? If not, I hope I’ve inspired you to give this style a try. There are so many statements you can make with it.

Also, I took you on quite a hair style tour today, everything from the days when I was still going blond, then to going grey and finally my “wig game”, which, honestly is the most fun.

Style on, stay creative and stay safe!

My Sew Sew Life-Dramatic Black Tunic for Style Imitating Art

The work for this week’s Style Imitating Art is phenomenal. Right at the top, I would like to think Salazar of 14 Shades of Grey for featuring this wonderful Brazilian fiber artist. After Salazar posted the challenge, I did a little research and found that Janaina Mello Landini received her architectural degree in 1999 and then attended art school five years later. She has been working on her Ciclotrama series since 2010.

Her understanding of space, physics and math are evident in her installations.

My first impressions when I looked at one of her Ciclotrama works were:

Different thicknesses of lines to create her universe of roots, vessels, synapses or however you want to interpret it
Contrast between black and gold
The use of curved versus straight
The ornate floral gilded pattern on the deconstructed frame

Those were the points I considered when deciding what to use for this round of SIA.

My Interpretation-Yes, I’m Wearing a Crown!

I went with something I made a couple of years ago. Severely hacked from an pattern to get my vision of a dramatic top with a high low hem; the full story about it is HERE (with more photos and all that sewing nitty gritty).

Contrasting against the black, I have a gold pendant from Kansas City jewelry designer Georgina Herrera which is based on a root motif. My other jewelry is gold as well.

And yes, I am wearing my crown that is very linear with its vine motif. It reminded me of the motifs on the gold framework used in the installation.

Where would I wear a crown? Well, this was at a Game of Thrones convention in Dallas, Texas and believe me, I didn’t stand out. Honestly, I love wearing this thing-it’s fun!

Finally, I like the fact that I’m standing in front of a pillar that has vertical and horizontal lines etched into it-more of the liner vs. the curved.

**One of my favorite necklaces , which is from Georgina Herrera’s Les Racines Roots collection. Isn’t that an appropriate name for this SIA!**

**This would have almost worked too, except no gold unless you count my sister’s shawl. I do wear my crown where I can-like fashion shows.**

**A closer view of my crown**. **Christie of AnnMann Designs came up with this little gem.**

If you want to have some fun, check this bi-weekly challenge out. Every Monday, there is a post on the ladies’ websites announcing what art work is going to be used. You don’t have to have a blog or even an Instagram account to participate-just send your photo (if its from your blog or IG, that will be published too). Include a statement of how that work of art influenced your decisions in styling your look. There are no wrong answers and all submissions will be published the next Wednesday by the curator for that round. Check it and them out!

Daenel of Living Outside the Stacks (this weeks curator)

Kim of Fierce Fashion

Salazar of 14 Shades of Grey

That’s it for today. Keep stylin’ and stay creative.

Always in Vogue-A Book Review

Anna Wintour became the editor-in-chief of Vogue in 1988. Thirty-two years is quite notable. However, Edna Woolman Chase has the crown when it comes service to Vogue. For the fifty-seven years that she worked for Vogue, thirty-eight were spent as editor-in-chief. And not just of American Vogue but of the French and British Editions.

I just finished reading Always in Vogue written by her and her daughter Ilka Chase in 1954. This was fascinating reading of an incredible woman’s account of her role of shepherding Vogue through the Great Depression and two world wars and seeing a dramatic change of fashion during her tenure.

She, along with Condè Nast took what was a small weekly society gazette and turned it into one of the supreme influences of fashion and culture.

The Beginning

Her mother and father had actually divorced when she was young, and Edna Woolman Chase was raised by her Quaker grandparents in upper New York state. However, when she turned eighteen, she moved to the New York City area.

In the fall of 1895 Edna Woolman Chase was sitting in the living room of her mother’s apartment in New York, wondering how she was going to get money to buy Christmas gifts. One of her best friends suggested that she come to the office of a fairly new magazine that she worked at to see about temporary work addressing envelopes.

She did and got a job at the three-year-old weekly magazine Vogue, which covered all the society events for all the society folks. She immediately excelled and absorbed what every department was doing. This enthusiasm and great capability was noticed by the creator and owner of Vogue, Arthur Tunure and he started to rely on her judgment for layouts, covers and all facets of the magazine.
Condè Nast

Edna Woolman Chase in conference with Condè Nast (center) and Frank Crowningshield in 1915. Crowningshield was editor of Vanity Fair, another entity of Nast. Ideas flowed freely between the two magazines and Crowningshield remained a life long friend of Edna Woolman Chase.

After Arthur Tennure passed away in 1906, his family eventually sold Vogue to Condè Nast in 1911. Nast eventually came to respect Edna Woolman Chase’s critical eye and editorial ability as much as Tenure. In 1914 he made her editor-in-chief. Her thoughts on this were, “I think, in a way, I became editor by a process of osmosis. I absorbed Vogue and Vogue absorbed me until, picking up knowledge as I went along, I eventually became ensconced in the post. My name first appeared on the masthead as editor in the February 1 issue of 1914.”

Breaking Ground

First Fashion Show-ever

She had to first convince Henri Bendel that the show would be a good thing for her to even think about having it. He agreed and all the other American fashion houses fell into line. Above is a Bendel design from 1914 and the type of dress that would have been modeled for the Fête,

During Chase’s first years, which included World War I she brainstormed an idea to raise money to help French charities. The first fashion show was born, or as she christened it; The Fashion Fête.

With the onset of the war, Paris fashions could not be exported and Edna Woolman Chase saw this as an opportunity to highlight American designers. After she enticed the leaders of New York society to participate, Condè Nash gave her card blanche to produce the show. He initially didn’t think the the creme of New York society would have anything to do with that type of enterprise but she proved him wrong.

One of the biggest challenges was finding and training women how to be models; how to walk, turn and pose. Until then, there was never a thing called a “fashion model”.

The night was a big success and Vogue’s advertising and prestige immediately shot up.

After the tremendous excitement shown for that first fashion show, designers and fashion houses decided that she came up with a really great idea. Within a year, they became part of the fashion season. By the 20’s modeling schools and agencies were established and no one has looked back.

Fashion Group International

Edna Woolman Chase has been also know for shepherding the Fashion Group International into existence. According to Chase, it was officially founded in 1931 but the FGI says 1930. FGI provided an awareness of the American fashion business and of women’s roles in that business.

The original idea was the brainchild, not of Chase herself but of Marcia Conner, a member of Vogue’s staff in the late 20’s. Chase told her that she was just to busy with her job as editor-in-chief to take on anymore responsibilities but Marcia persisted with the idea. Finally, in 1930, Chase got a group of notables together, which included Elizabeth Arden, Elinor Roosevelt, Edith Head, Elena Rubinstein and Claire McCardell.

The organization is an ongoing and important voice in fashion with membership throughout the world and since 1997 also includes men.

I highly recommend watching the short video on FGI’s history found on their website.

In Her Life

What I thought was intensely interesting was seeing history through the lens of someone who lived through an extraordinary one. Edna Woolman Chase started working for Vogue in the Late Victorian era (complete with corsets). She managed Vogue through WW I, the fashion game changing 20’s, the Depression, and WW II. She gives insight in how her life and others were influenced and changed by all these major 20th century events.

She just casually mentions having friends and working relationships with the such as Dorthy Parker, Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Carmel Snow (a very disappointing one), Jean Patou, Edward Steichen, Wallis Simpson, Cecil Beaton and Main Bocker to name just a few.

I will mention that after Main Bocher left Vogue as an artist, he opened his own design studio in Paris (as Mainbocker) eventually designed Wallis Simpson’s wedding gown.

Personally, I found the chapters covering WW II the most mesmerizing. It had such an impact on the Vogue’s family, especially those in the British and French offices; some very heartbreaking, as a lot of WW II was.

I was hoping that she would give her thoughts about Dior’s New Look that he unveiled in 1947. She did and wrote, “There are two ways at looking at a new collection: through the line, which is often not really very different and through detail; through handling, which can make news. That is where Dior shone. His look was one of unforced femininity- a polished continuation of the rounded line, which had been seen in Paris since the first postwar collections, but with the fabric so worked, the silhouette so gently handled that there was no look of heaviness or stricture. His clothes, while wearable gave women the feeling of being charmingly costumed, there was a faintly romantic flavor about them.” I think she like it.

A Woman of Opinions

**The back cover of my book. Edna at the time she wrote her autobiography, with her daughter Ilka and Mr. Puff-ahhh, another Poodle lover.**

Edna Woolman Chase was known to expect a lot from her staff. She was a woman of strong opinions on how things should be. One example was her war on open toed shoes.

She started her first assault with a 1939 speech to the Shoe Fashion Guild, in which she addressed, “I beg you to stop this promotion of the open-toed, open-backed shoes for street wear. From the very beginning of this fashion in 1937, when women first began to appear on the city streets with their toes sticking out of their shoes, I have felt it was a distinctly bad style and had hoped it would have an early death.

Open toed shoes may be worn for dress occasions, afternoons, dinner and evening. Also for resort and country wear, NOT for walking in the city if you have the understanding of true essence of smartness of which the first essential is suitability. They are inappropriate, unsightly and dirty.” I think she made her position clear.

However, at the time she was writing her book, she’s admits that women still weren’t listening to her and on that particular point , I don’t think we ever will!

Another strong opinion that she had is very current with a movement today. Turning grey very early in life, she never colored her hair. Once it was suggested by a friend that she should color it. Her young daughter became upset that she would do anything to her beautiful silver hair. She decided she agreed with Ilka and and always wore her silver crown with grace.

In closing, a quote from Edna Woolman Chase,

“Style derives from character. It must have the feeling of an artist behind it. Fashion can be bought. Style on must possess. ” Edna Woolman Chase

Always in Vogue is no longer published. I found my copy used on Amazon for about $20. It is a first edition and I thought that was a reasonable price. You can still find the original book on ABE and only $7.99 for Amazon Kindle (published by V&A Fashion Perspectives series).

And with that, my friends is the end of my book review of this remarkable woman. I hoped you enjoyed reading about her.

Style on and be creative!

My Sew-Sew Life: Tom & Linda Platt’s Dress, Vogue Pattern 1348, for Style Imitating Art

It’s time for another Style Imitating Art entry.

The challenge art work for this round is curated by Kim of Fierce Fashion. She has picked Bouquet of Wild Flowers by Odilon Redin, a member of the 19th century French avant-garde art movement.

**Bouquet of Wild Flowers**
**Odilon Redon**
**Date: c.1900**
**Style: Realism, Symbolism**
**Genre**: flower painting
**Media: oil, canvas**

My Take On This Artwork

I was inspired by the flower subject matter and colors that Redin used and the fact that it is slightly impressionistic. I noticed that the above description says “realism” but I just don’t see that, as least as compared to the Dutch Realists still-life painters of the 17th century.

My dress has an impressionistic flower motif with many of the same colors Redin used in his painting. Also, I created this Vogue pattern dress for an event that was held at a botanical garden. Even my background is full of flowers.

The fabric is a Nicole Miller design, Petal Power from Joanne’s Fabric. Three years ago, she did a limited line of designs for them. All of her designs were beautiful and I’ve have always been a bit sad that she hasn’t designed more fabric.

This 100 % polyester fabric consists of two layers: a bottom printed solid layer, and a sheer printed layer on top. As the two printed layers move against each other, they give off a somewhat three-dimensional feel. Blue was even worked into the color palette with the oranges, reds, yellows and greens, along with white and black.

This dress and it’s making was a subject of an earlier post. If you want more details of the actual pattern, sewing experience and just a lot more photos, please go to My Sew-Sew Life-New Floral Spring Dress. This dress has always been one of my favorite makes and this pattern is still in print. It must be very popular!

Daenel of Living Outside the Stacks (this weeks curator)

Kim of Fierce Fashion

Salazar of 14 Shades of Grey

That’s it for this SIA

Take care & stay creative

My Sew Sew Life-It’s Fall So Time To Make a New Summer Top!

It seems, when it comes to sewing, seasons just don’t mean too much to me. Today is a sewing story about my new sleeveless top that I made using McCall 5779. Ideas for this top started when I acquired two special pieces of silk about three years ago, which I will talk about a little later.

Michelle, my daughter, had McCalls 5779 lying around in her sewing room about two years ago. She had bought it for the pants pattern (shown later below), but I immediately saw how the top was a perfect solution for my silk. As soon as Joanne’s had a McCalls pattern sale, I swooped it up.

It did take me a while to make it. Honestly, I think I was a bit apprehensive about cutting into the silk. Silk usually doesn’t intimidate me but these two pieces were a bit different and I had what I had and wasn’t getting more if something didn’t work out.

This design is dramatically asymmetrical with no side of the garment looking the same. So without further ado, I will model all four sides of this design.

**For accessories, I picked my older Madeline sandals (picked up a few years ago** at Sophie in Joplin, MO, my
**Antony Luciano Megan** **Hobo bag (2nd hand-eBay) and an older wooden** **cuff.**

And finally, the pattern…

**The lines of the pants aren’t very clear here. Someday I may make them using a** **ponte knit.** The seaming on the top is very clear: so many pieces!

The Sewing Stuff

My General Impressions of the Pattern

I would rate this pattern at advanced beginner. Yes, there are a lot of pieces and seams to make but the instructions are very clear and easy to follow.

Most of the top is sewn with straight seams and has only one advanced feature. This is the placket and button loop at the back neck. However, when I was reading the reviews for this pattern on Pattern Review, a few left this feature out. There already is plenty of room in the neckline and the placket is not really necessary to get the top over your head.

What Changes Did I Make?

I did make two small changes from the pattern.

at the pattern, I did think the shoulder seams were too narrow and there might be a chance of my bra straps showing and did add 1/2″ to the shoulders. I did not make a muslin because there were so many pattern pieces and went off the measurements, which were just fine.

The pattern instructions called for raw seams to be showing on the bindings. I chose not to do this and finished my arm holes and neckline with finished edges (a simple self-fabric bias tape). Reading the pattern reviews, I found that others had made this choice also.

Special Techniques

The French seam is my favorite finish for most garments. With all the seams that were in this top, I saw it as a necessity to keep every thing neat inside. Honestly, with silk, I always use French seams.

I wanted to emphasize each individual piece of this puzzle and did so using a running stitch in brown silk thread. It added about a week to the project but it got me through a couple of Netflix series and gave my top a one of a kind look.

The Silk Embroidery Thread

I only had white silk embroidery thread but wanted brown. That meant it was time for a little kitchen dying. Using tea bags and white vinegar (for the fixative), I came up with the perfect brown. I then wound them on some of my smaller antique yarn bobbins. I thought they were so pretty I had to take a picture.

Tea and coffee make wonderful dyes for natural fibers (silk, cotton, wool etc) if you need brown.

That Special Silk

I’m lucky enough to know a few Kansas City designers. Three years ago, one of them decided to move her studio from a rented space to her home and had a studio sale. Could I resist? No.

Among my haul, were these two pieces of silk, which she had previously gotten from another fiber artist (can’t remember the name). One piece is a silk satin and the other has a seersucker texture. What makes them special is that both were patterned with the cold-bundled eco-print method.

I’ve never done this myself but am familiar with the process. Basically you dye print fabric using leaves, flowers, onion-skins, coffee grounds and etc. I’m not going to go into it, but here is a blog where the technique is taught with clear instruction and with some gorgeous samples.

I’m enamored with the beautiful results that you can get with this process and have been wanting to try it for a few years. As soon as I do, you will be the first to know .

Other Ways to Wear My Top

I couldn’t leave you without trying other ways to wear my new top.

Thank goodness for long cardigans. They can turn anything into a fall look!

I can just throw a big scarf over my shoulders to add some color and warmth: always love playing with my scarfs.

I just wanted to see what this one would look like; mixing a silk top with Fila running pants and my wool (yes 100% wool) KEDS

Getting back to the summer, I paired my top with a silk skirt from 1997. If I decide to use it, it would have to be altered because it’s quite a wide A-line. I’m not going to show you the back because there’s a clothes pin back there scrunching all that fullness. For the alteration I would have to take out and put back in an invisible zipper. So, I think I won’t worry about that one until next summer.

For me, being creative is like breathing. But, I also was an art teacher for 32 years and so I guess that comes with the territory. What I love about sewing is that we all get to be designers. Even if the pattern is designed by someone else, you still get to pick the fabric, trims and all the other stuff that goes into making something. Even if it’s a simple tote bag, it still reflects you and your personality. You will always make mistakes but that’s part of every learning experience. Believe me, my seam ripper is one of my best friends.

If you ever want to dip your toes into this sewing pond (or get back and swim again), I have to recommend Anita by Design’s YouTube channel. She’s a great teacher and has beginning sewing lessons where she takes you from creating skirts, tops and finally a dress. I have watched quite a few of her sew along classes and think she is just wonderful. Some of the patterns she uses are discontinued but replacements could easily be found.

By the way, have you checked out my extensive list of Independent pattern companies?

I am continuously updating it as I find new designers.

OK, now I’m finished,

Take care and stay creative

Spinning a Yarn: My Organic Cotton Hand-Knitted Twin Set for Style Imitates Art

Hi Everyone,

This is a spontaneous and unplanned post. I participate in a newly discovered challenge (on my part) that is spearheaded Daenel of Living Outside the Stacks, Kim of Fierce Fashion, and Salazar of 14 Shades of Grey. Twice a month they they take turns picking a work of art or a piece of historical clothing and challenge us to style an outfit that is inspired by the work. Until this week, I’ve always found something in my previous posts published throughout the years. But this time around, I couldn’t find anything that I thought expressed what I saw in the piece below.

The Challenge by -An Early 19th Century Cap From The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. This week’s curator is Daenel from Living Outside the Stacks.

**Cap**
Date: early 19th century
Culture: European
Medium: cotton, silk, glass beads
Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Julian Street Jr., 1975
Accession Number: 1975.213.4

My take on this piece.

Why did I decide on this outfit?

When I looked at this cap, the biggest thing that stands out to me was that it was hand knitted in a natural colored fiber (cotton). It is a hand knitted item. I’m pretty sure about this because the only knitting machines that I know that existed in the 19th century were only for socks. In the early 19th century, all clothing (with the exception of socks), was created by hand; hand stitch by hand stitch (no commercial sewing machines until about 1860).

The cotton and silk fibers used would have had to be organic (pretty sure insecticides were around then). Also, I noticed the green silk ribbon and all those glorious beads that contrast against the natural color of the cap.

I’m a hand knitter so I decided to use a twin set that I knitted a few years ago from natural colored organic cotton. I’ve forgotten who made the yarn because I’ve had it for such a long time. The cardigan, named “Sanpoku” is from Berocco’s Yin & Yang #262 pattern booklet and I adapted the mock turtleneck from some pattern probably from Vogue Knitting. But, really I can’t remember where I got it.

I decided to further carry out the hand made attributes of this bonnet. This includes, a pin made from a piece of dried squash (yes, the veggie) that I picked up from a art museum gift shop (I’ve forgotten the artist) and a hand made silver ring by Cheryl Eve Acosta, a Kansas City jewelry artist. Finally I chose a green (not the gorgeous hunter green of the ribbon, but a green nerveless) Anthony Luciano bag.

Anthony Luciano makes all his bags in his workshop in New York City. Needless to say they are very expensive and I only can get them if I find them 2nd hand here and there (mainly eBay and Poshmark).

I loved the glass beads used but just didn’t didn’t have anything that worked with the outfit.

And since it was a head covering, I tried one of my hats with the look.

If you want to have some fun, check this challenge out. Every Monday, there is a post on the ladies’ websites announcing what art work is going to be used. You don’t have to have a blog or even an Instagram account to participate-just send your photo (if its from your blog or IG, that will be published too). Include a statement of how that work of art influenced your decisions in styling your look. There are no wrong answers and all submissions will be published the next Wednesday by the curator for that round. Check it and them out!

Daenel of Living Outside the Stacks (this weeks curator)

Kim of Fierce Fashion

Salazar of 14 Shades of Grey

Have fun.

Be creative,

Oh, and back to yarn…..

**This isn’t my yarn (it’s too old) but you can find organic cotton easily on the Internet. This one is from WEBS**

And a big update. Do you like this Asian style cardigan and do you knit? I found the pattern for FREE, yes free on the Berroco Site.

Big Dots! A Transition Top

Hello friends and welcome back! I’ve something new that I added to my wardrobe. This striking black and white blouse (or tunic?), was one of three things that I picked up during August. Like many of you, I’ve been tracking how much I purchase in an effort to cut down but decided this top needed to be in my life.

In early February, when Covid was just whispering in our ear and not screaming in our face, I ventured down to my friend Debby’s boutique, What To Wear, to help unpack spring selections. There, already unpacked, was this “right up my alley” top.

From its bold pattern, long length, hi-low style and all those wonderful buttons (even down the back), I could easily wear it for spring and fall. Believe me, I had plenty to go with it!

When the pandemic hit, I decided to just forget about it. Where was I going to wear it anyway? Soon after, the boutique closed down and that really settled things.

Then came August and Debby put all her spring line on sale. I had money to burn because in May, when the shop was closed, she offered $100 gift certificates for $80. This was a stroke of genus and I scooped one up! So with gift certificate and mask in hand, I headed down to check things out. The top was still there in a size I could wear.

Three Parts of Fall

As fall is almost upon us, I’m only going to style for it. I’ve divided it into three distinct mini-seasons. They are:

Early fall which transitions from summer to slightly cooler temps. It can still warm up a bit here during early fall.
Indian Summer fall-those perfect days when it’s not too hot or too cool. Three quarter sleeves or long sleeves (sometimes rolled up)-it’s all good.
Late fall-you sort of get that winter is coming. It may start out warm but be sure to take a wrap or you might get really cold!

Early Fall-Transitioning From Summer

I love that this pattern has some of the circles seemingly woven into the bars and others are sitting on top.

In early fall, I’m still wearing my white jeans-(by American Eagle). Forget about that “not after Memorial Day” that our mothers drilled into us. I mentioned earlier that I picked up three new items this August. My Rebecca Minkoff zipper adorned sandals were one of the three.

Rather than do the big Nordstrom’s sale thing, I gravitate towards Rebecca Minkoff, Francis Valentine and I have to admit, Macy’s.

The Coach bag and jewelry have been with me for a pretty long while.

It has a high/low silhouette and slits at the sides.

All those wonderful buttons down the faux back opening.

Middle Fall-Indian Summer

Indian Summer days are perfect. Long sleeves or three quarter sleeves shirts suffice and jackets are not required. I did change things up a tad.

For this mini-season, I exchanged my white jeans for a pair of black stretch knit skinny pants that were made by me about four years ago. They were the bottom half of a more elaborate top. I rarely wear the top, but this pair of pants have been a workhorse. With their elastic waistband and knitted fabric, they are high on my “comfort clothing” list.

I also incorporated what seems to be still one of my favorite accessory finishes, metallic silver. My summer sandals are gone and I’ve substituted silver Tory Burch flats which were the first items I bought on The RealReal and added my Michael Kors bag which was the last thing I just picked up there. My necklace is a older Stella & Dot purchased 2^nd hand from eBay.

Late Fall-Might Just Need a Wrap and If Your Me-Maybe Change Your Hair!

Finally, when it’s almost time for a jacket or at least a shawl), I added textured and patterned flats along with my black Leo clutch with its zipper edges by Rebecca Minkoff. If I was off shopping, I would exchange the clutch for a larger bag (got to hold my reusable shopping bags).

When it gets cooler, I feel comfortable sporting a scarf around my neck. If it’s hot, I just can’t do it. In this case, it’s my vintage Poodle Vera scarf.

And I just might change my hair. This is my “Sass” style. No longer produced, she is Heather by René of Paris in Black Pearl and one of my favorites. René of Paris is known for their cutting edge styles and fashion colors. Unfortunately, that means that they cut older designs to add new ones.

During cooler temps, I find a shawl is more convenient that a jacket and much more dramatic! I’m wearing my black shawl that I knitted in my “Rows of Many Colors” technique. Created out of about ten textually different black yarns, it probably should be called, “Rows of Many Textures”.

I developed this technique years ago to take advantage of my very large yarn stash. I first blogged about this knitting technique here. Scarfs and shawls have been my main use for this technique but I just finished a coat using it and am planning to write a post about it in October.

This is a great technique for beginners in that usually only the garter stitch is used. That’s only one stitch to learn! The colors and textures can be showstoppers. My complete technique instructions can be found HERE.

Close up of the textures in my shawl

Darcy says hello!

So that’s my plan on how I’m wearing and will wear this top for the fall season. Also, I am very sure I’ll be using this top for the spring season too. One extra thought, I did find this top at The Vogue Boutique Here. It must be a good seller because they don’t have it on sale (I did get mine 40% off).

That all I have today. Take care and stay safe!

My Sew-Sew Life: 1+1=1 or Not

Welcome to my blog today. As the title has hinted, this is another sewing story. During this summer, two of the pieces I’ve sewn for myself are a new pair of palazzo pants and a knit dolmen sleeve top. These two pieces are from different patterns and not especially meant to go with each other but together I think they make a good team.

I’m pretty excited about these two pieces and their versatility.

The Palazzo Pants-Pattern & Fabric

My palazzo pants are from a TAT (tried and true);Vogue 1168. Over the years, I’ve made three pairs of pants from this pattern; two for me and one for my daughter Rachelle. Because of the zipper, I would rate this pattern as an advance beginner. Everything else was easy.

I absolutely love palazzo pants! Have you tried them? With the right type of fabric they can be elegant and move wonderfully when you walk. Mine are made in a 2 way stretch polyester designed by Nicole Miller for Joanne’s Fabric. As I remember, she did this collaboration three or four years ago. I’ve made three pieces from this collection and wish she was still designing fabric because everything she did was beautiful.The first piece that I made using her designs is found HERE.

Some of her fabric can still be found on ESTY and eBay; just search Nicole Miller fabric. I think any silky or drapy fabric does well with a palazzo style design. The pattern recommends Charmeause or Crepe Backed Satin which makes for a pretty fancy pair of pants and I didn’t want that. As long as you fabric has some drape, I think you would be fine. But, now I’m wondering how they would move in a cotton or cotton/linen mix.

alvoru&pants — This is a great summer casual and semi-dress up pant. For this style, I picked my Alvöru sleeveless ruffled top made from 48% Outlast® viscose, 48% Supima cotton, 4% spandex, which makes for a super summer cool top. FYI-this top is not on sale for $20! I then added all silver accessories.

closeupAlvorupants — **For accessories I have my metallic Michael Kors bag, my silver Karen Scott sandals (these two have become my summer staple), and a resin bracelet created by my daughter Rachelle .**

This pattern has been long discontinued but it can still be found on eBay and ETSY for under $10. I originally bought the pattern because of the top, but have never gotten around to making it….awwww, someday!

My favorite part of the pants is the comfortable wide waist yoke which you can’t usually see when I’m wearing them. Also, there is a zipper in the back and I used an invisible zipper.

Other Makes

My first make using Vogue 1168. These black pants are a closet staple! I used Peachskin polyester from Joanne’s fabric and have worn them so much. I first talk about them HERE and give a small overview of the history of palazzo pants in American fashion.

The second pair I made was for Rachelle, this time in off white Peachskin from Joanne’s fabric. The abstract overlay you see was printed on Spoonflower using her artwork as a graphic.

If you want unique fabric or have a design you want to create, Spoonflower is the place to go.

Other Pattern Options

For the beginner, there is Simplicity 8131. This would be super conformable to wear because it has an elastic waist.

Already have a pants pattern that is tried and true? Kim Dave shows how to create Palazzo pants from a pattern you already have.

Daughter’s of Style, an Indie pattern maker has this design, which I am in love. It features pockets, front pleats and the wide waist band.

il_1140xN.1124206723_l9qk — **I don’t think I would be wearing this kind of shirt with it LOL!**

The Dolmen Sleeve Knit Top

My top is from Vogue 1567, which also has a skirt that I am definitely also making.

This top is easy to wear and a fairly simple sew (beginner level) with a self neckline facing. However, in the end, because of it’s almost off the shoulder style, I had to make major pattern adjustments. I did use my serger for some seams but that would not be necessary. I’ve made plenty of stretch knit garments long before I had a serger.

The Fabric

This pattern calls for a 2-way stretch with a 50% cross grain stretch.

The fabric I chose was Ken-Dor’s T7880 – Tencel™ Organic Cotton Jersey, which is 70% Lyocell (Tencel™), 30% Organic Cotton. I love Ken-Dor fabric because, “Ken-Dor takes great pride in specializing in environmentally & socially responsible knit and woven textiles and strives to ensure that partner mills adhere to multiple global standards of environmental and social compliance.”

Ken-Dor does not sell directly to consumers. I use the The Sourcing District but there is a five yard minimum on fabric orders. My five yards are gone already.

How I Have Worn It

Below you see one of my usual tricks. I’ve taken a thick hair band and gathered up a bit of my top at the bottom. I like the asymmetrical look this creates and use this technique quite a lot with my knit tops.

DandChecks — A great casual top, I paired it with my checked cotton pants, a vintage Rodo straw bag and my Vince Camutto slip-ons. This is a quick and easy outfit, if I want to look good and don’t want to think what I have to wear. If I had known how much I have come to love these shoes, i think I would have ordered two pairs. You can’t get anything like them now.

My back neckline is slightly different than the patterns. More about that later.

My back neckline is slightly different than the patterns. More about that later in the next section.

This just seemed the perfect outfit to pop on a hat. Darcy says Hi!

The Pattern

I already have my fabric for the skirt.

The Big Uh-Oh (but I did get a new cami out of it)

Now on to my tale of woe! But, you know what they say, “if you’re given lemons, make lemonade,” and I think that is what I have done.

Yes, you have seen this photo before. It’s from my last post.

As I mentioned earlier, my neckline is different. From the pattern photo, I felt the neckline might not work for me. To be physically comfortable, I need to wear a full support bra. That has just been a fact of my life-forever! I can wear a halter bra but that strap around my neck is not comfortable (but, I can do it for a few hours) and have never felt secure in strapless bras. It does limit some styles I can wear, but I’ve lived with this for decades and just work around it.

With new untried patterns, I usually made a practice piece for fit (called a muslin). For this top I needed some cheap knit, which i didn’t have. This sew happened during late May when we weren’t going anywhere because of Covid-19 so I decided to use a piece of woven fabric, thinking it might give me close enough accuracy. Wrong! My muslin told me the neckline was OK. I cut the top, sewed it up and was dismayed when I tried it on. The neckline was much wider in the knit! With the way the pattern was designed, there was no way to alter it. I just had to scrap the whole thing!

I went back and redrafted the pattern’s neckline to create a narrower neckline and fortunately had just enough knit to cut a new top.

That wasted top gnawed at me and I had to find a way to use that fabric. That is when I remembered an old pattern I had for the 70’s. It had a perfect cami top and I had made it before-perfect match! Now, I’m a happy camper because I will wear both tops a lot.

All Together Now

And, finally the two pieces together…or the 1+1=1

I love these wide legs! They are retro, elegant and cool all at the same time. It surprises me that I’ve only made two pairs of these pants for myself.

I purchased my Marc Fisher cork platform sandals new this summer.

That’s the end of this sewing and style tale. I hope you have enjoyed this creative journey of mine. I’m always interested in how many of my readers have sewn during sometime in their life. Did you take that beginning Home Economics course that a lot of us did? I still have the wrap around skirt that I made in 8th grade! The fabric pattern is of questionable taste but it’s fun to get out and have a chuckle over.

If you ever want to dip your toes into this sewing pond, I have to recommend Anita by Design’s YouTube channel. She’s a great teacher and has beginning sewing lessons where she takes you from creating skirts, tops and finally a dress.

Independent Pattern Companies

I am unabashedly plugging my newest page. There was a time when we could get Vogue patterns quite regularly for $6.00 from their website but I think those days are pretty much over. This is bad and good. The bad is that I probably won’t be getting to many more patterns from what has been my favorite pattern company since high school. I even made my senior prom dress from a Vogue! However, the good is that it has made me seriously explore indie patterns and I have found some amazing designers! So much so, that I now have a extensive source list of Indie patterns.

OK, that was the shameless plug!

Indie patterns are PDFs (sometimes for a higher price you can get a paper pattern). You can print them from home (and do a lot of taping together) or send a file copy to a print shop and have your pattern printed in one piece. I don’t mind the taping but I know that my daughter Michelle has taken the A0 file to her local print shop to have them printed but she now also prefers to print and tape at home too.

Being able to download PDFs means, I can use designers from around the world. It has been so much fun to see what is going on in Denmark, France, Australian and Germany, etc. I’ve always admired Name Patterns from Denmark, but really hadn’t expanded my knowledge of to many other designers. I now have 71 designers on my list! These designs run from super simple for absolute beginners, to advanced and even zero waste designs! Honestly, I feel better putting money directly in the hands of a talented entrepreneur.

OK, that’s it for today.

Take care and stay safe,

Black & White Kimono

Hello everyone, I have one more kimono before the summer ends! Today is just one style that I’ve put together using my new piece. This could have been a pretty short post with just the one look, but it also gave me an opportunity to talk about some things I’ve been wanting to mention for a while. The end result is that this story is still a pretty long one so I better get started.

Earlier this summer, I was window shopping on eBay and was immediately drawn to this kimono. The first thing I noticed was the black to white pattern it had. For some reason, it reminded me of M.C. Escher’s drawings.

bWintro — Again, I’m carrying what seems to be my favorite bag for this summer season-a metallic silver cross-body Michael Kors that I found on The RealReal in June. Why not add a little color? My wedge sandals are some old Italian Shoemakers from DSW (actually, they belong to my youngest daughter.) This company makes some of the most comfortable summer sandals around.

echer — **Sky and Water by M.C, Escher, 1938-Probably most of you have seen this print. It’s just one of his many amazing works. Anyway, I thought of this particular art work when I saw my kimono.**

Diamonds, Squares & Rectangles

I was also fascinated by what seemed to be some very interesting use of geometrical shapes in the piece. Of course, I couldn’t really be sure of this unless I bought the thing. So for $15, I got a new kimono. My eyes did not deceive me. This piece is made up of various geometrical shapes put together like a puzzle.

The front extensions are rectangles.

The back is the most complicated shape-based on a diamond but with some refining. It’s just sewn on top of the sleeves creating an opening which I think is also one of the interesting features-back ventilation.

And Squares For Sleeves

One Sewing Mistake=New Black Cami

I’m sneaking a little sewing in here. Earlier this summer I made a black knit dolmen sleeve top. Although, it hasn’t been on here yet, I’ve been wearing it a lot. Unfortunately, I made a mistake with the fitting and had to trash the first attempt and was really grateful that I had enough fabric to cut another top. However, I was left with a useless, half sewn piece of fabric. What to do? Well, one can always use another black cami.

Using an old summer Vogue pattern from 1976, inspired by Yves St. Laurent’s famous Russian collection, I was able to salvage most of the fabric. I also used this pattern in the 80’s for the base of a summer dress and like then, I widen the straps. During the 90’s I made a skirt from this pattern. Some patterns you just hang on to.

And why just have a plain cami? I took advantage of this sew to use some vintage black sari silk strips that I had and a bit of black trim that was in my stash. That’s it, the sewing part of my post is over!

A New Necklace from Ressa’s Artistic Design

I have a new necklace. This is a pretty rare event. It seems lately, that most of my jewelry is second hand. However, I made an exception for Clarissa Knighten, an artist that I really like.

Years ago, I found Clarissa at a craft show and was fascinated that she used crochet to turn buttons, beads and wire into jewelry. All those years ago, it was pretty rare, or at least I had never seen anything like it.

In the ensuing years, she has built up quite a repertoire and stature in the design community. Lately, she was a participant in the Kansas City Fashion week and will be again as soon as they can safely hold one. But Clarissa is also very comfortable hanging around and showing with fine artists, which is something, I especially love.

artshowgreen — Here we all were last summer at a group show that both Rachelle, my daughter and Clarissa were showing in at the InterUrban ArtHouse. From left to right, me, Clarissa and Rachelle. It’s hard to see them, but I have a pair of her earrings on.

For style impact, Clarissa’s jewelry is very reasonably priced and it’s fun to window shop her designs. There are three places you can find her on the web. It’s a treat just to peruse her collection. I hope you check her out.

Ressa’s Artistic Design’s Web Page & Shop

Ressa’s Artistic Design’s Instagram

Rissa’s Artistic Design’s Facebook Page

My Hair Affair

One last thing to talk about. I know this is a lot of topics today but quite a few of you over the past couple of years have asked me to talk about my love of wigs and why I wear them. Yes, I will eventually create a whole post about this (I keep saying this, I know) but decided to get my toes wet today. For today’s styling I picked quite a different hair style then I usually have. I felt that this edgy cut and color would really complement what I as going for.

That’s the main attraction that I have for “alternative hair,” (aka wigs). I can change my hair style without going to the hairdresser and maybe doing something to my hair that I will have to live with for a long time.

During Covid, I haven’t had to worry about how my hair looks when I go out ( the beauty shops not being open thing.) In two minutes, I’m perfectly coiffed and ready to be out the door. Sometimes, on Instagram, you can see my bio hair, especially when I want to wear a hat (although some of my hats do fit over my ladies).

4viewsrop — I made this collage soon after getting Aria. The basic style and color suited me fine but I didn’t like the length so I took her to my hair dresser and she did a great job trimming the length. The asymmetrical look is still there, just shorter.

Today’s style is Aria by Rene of Paris in color Illumina-R (hint-R always means that it is a rooted color) from Cysterwigs.com. I’ve had her her for a while (for some reason, everyone calls their wigs “her”). Always waiting for a good deal, I picked Aria up during a 40% sale; most sales run at 30%. Unfortunately, Rene of Paris has discontinued Aria but their sister company offers the same style in the same color but more expensive because it has more bells and whistles: Faith by Noriko.

silverwigcollage — **Just a few times when I’ve chosen Aria to complement what I was wearing. I picked her for an edgy look but think she does elegant pretty well too.**

Taz, one of my favorite YouTube reviewers just came out with a vidio that explains my faithfullness of having a few good hair styles ready to go.

That’s all about my “Hair Affair” for the moment. I hope this explains a bit about my devotion to my ladies.

Introducing Darcy Gardner

There’s probably going to be a new scene stealer in my photo’s from now on. We adopted Darcy on July 10th from The Joplin Humane Society. Michael had just missed our old Black Lab that passed away during January of 2019 and it was wanting a new dog. Our old crew (and mean old; ages 15, 11, and 9) aren’t to thrilled. Being part Border Collie and only eight months old, Darcy is a bundle of energy.

**Darcy has an interesting approach to bring back a frisbee and is making more work for me trying to keep the deck clean. Oh well, all in a day, as we say.**

That pretty much is it for today and thank you for making it to the end. There was so much to talk about today!

Take care everyone and stay safe.

My Sew Sew Life-Repair & Wear

Today, I have a tale of two skirts. They’re great summer skirts but each had a problem that made it unwearable. Using two very simple sewing techniques, I was able, in short order, to fix them. Now, I’m enjoying wearing both of these beauties.

Because both skirts have strong personalities, I’m using simple white tops to complement them.

Skirt #1-The Bright Floral from India

redfox copy — A couple of weeks ago, we ventured to The Red Fox Winery in Uric, Missouri for lunch. Social distance wasn’t hard as we were the only ones on the patio. Greek cuisine is their specificity, which is always a winner with me. For the wine, we picked their Chamboursin, a dry red, which went perfectly.

Skirt #1, Last summer, this beautiful bright print from India just out shown the other skirts at Goodwill. However, it was very obvious why it was there. Attached to its hem was a dangley bead trim with a good amount of dangles missing.

That was an easy fix; get the seam ripper and remove the bead tape from the hem. But the hem was a pretty sloppy job because, well, they had the beaded trim to cover it up!

I just turned the width of the hem up and using a blind hem stitch, made a new hem and now I get to wear my “new to me” skirt.

floralhome — Adding to my summer skirt: blush wedge sandals from Lifestride, A Chico white 3/4 sleeve tee (old but here’s similar), a fun thrifted beaded pink bracket and a very old pink quartz necklace that I bought in 1990 at the Sackler Gallery when we visited the Smithsonian. I decided to match my bag with my sandals and am carrying my ecru and blush leather tote, which I found years ago at a small Kansas City boutique. Strangely, there’s no label of maker, just Made in Italy. I found a long pink tassel on sale at TJ Maxx a few years ago and can put it on or take it off, whenever I feel like it.

I Love YouTube!

Anymore, when I’m having trouble with some technique, I turn to YouTube. Just this summer I finally mastered two knitting techniques that I had been struggling with for a while. Being a left handed knitter, sometimes things get a bit of a challenge.

YouTube is also great for learning sewing techniques too.

I’ve included a tutorial from YouTube on how to do this really handy stitch. All you need is needle and thread.

The Classic hem stitch-which is the one my Mom taught me and I always use. Each stitch is locked so if one stitch is broken, the rest stay in place.

Skirt #2-The 5-Tier Indigo Ikat Print

Sometime during the fall of 2011, I picked up my five tiered ikat inspired skirt from a Macy’s clearance rack. At the time, I also picked up a sleeveless white top to go with it. But truthfully, I never liked how the whole thing looked together. The end result was that I just didn’t wear the two pieces that much.

I did pull the skirt (not the top) out for a post back in 2016. Included in that post was the history of tiered skirts in American fashion and what makes the ikat weaving technique so special. You know me, always trying to pull my history and art in. A link to that original post is HERE.

featureikat — I’m really happy with how my old short sleeve linen blouse works with my skirt and wished I had thought of it years ago. I added a pair of straw and jute platform sandals and a second hand Sak bag that I found on eBay at about the time I bought the skirt. I wore this out when we went for one of our late lunches (The Wine Journal is pretty deserted at 3 in the afternoon).

My skirt got put back in the closet and forgotten until last November. That’s when Reni of Reni’s Odds and Sods published a story about her trip to the south of France. Towards the middle of her article was a photo of her in a blue and white tiered skirt, white top and a straw hat. It could have been me!

I soon pulled my skirt out to try it on. It turned out that in the ensuing years, the elastic in the waist had completely disintegrated. That was a problem and I had a decision to make; donate it or fix it. I procrastinated and put it in the indecisive pile.

Then came “Covid Time” and it was time to catch up on those lost projects and repairing my skirt was one of them. I decided to put in a wider elastic so I completely removed the stitching for the casing, pressed a new casing with my iron, ran a quick seam, inserted good elastic and I was done!

If I had the exact width of elastic, I’ve could have just taken out the old elastic and put in the new. However, I wanted to use what I had, even if it meant a little extra work.

Using a sewing machine did make my work quicker, but I could have used the blind stitch from above and everything would have been just fine.

Here’s another YouTube video to explain what I did.

MAKING A CASING FOR AND INSERTING ELASTIC

Here’s Reni’s and my blog photos side by side. See what I mean?

That’s the tale of my two newly mended skirts. Rather than being folded up in the useless pile they are now on hangers. Ironically, outside one short white summer skirt, these are the only two that I have. It’s nice to have skirts again! I’ve been wearing them out for our isolated afternoon luncheons.

It always feels good to me to make something useless work again. Have you done anything like this lately in your time at home? Or have you learned something new that you wanted to learn for a while? For me it was those two knitting techniques I mentioned early on.

I think that’s all I have to talk about for today. I’ve been mainly sewing, knitting, dying Alpaca fiber and working in my flower garden. I’ve really been exploring independent pattern companies and have expanded my list on my People to Read + Places to Go. I now have links to over sixty two independent pattern companies! I had no idea there were so many. Some have been having July sales and I’ve picked up some that I’m pretty anxious to make.

Take care and stay safe everyone-and stay creative.